CT2K

Africa Observed has recently returned from a five week journey from Cape Town to Kampala on bus, boat and boda boda.

This journey has inspired a number of articles which constitute the From Cape Town to Kampala (CT2K) series which will be published over the coming weeks. With anecdote and experience framed by research and analysis these articles elucidate topical issues concerning both the countries visited, namely Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Burundi, Rwanda and Uganda and the broader Southern, Central and East African regions.

Some practical notes on the journey.

Cape Town-Windhoek-Livingstone-Victoria Falls-Mazabuka-Lusaka-Mpulungu-Bujumbura-Huye-Cyangugu-Kigali-Kabale-Lake Bunyonyi-Kampala-Jinja-Entebbe

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The journey was done on public transport with the occasional lift from friends. Africa Observed enjoyed a rather generous budget of US$ 1200 (not including a flight from Entebbe back to Johannesburg) which allowed for “splurge” experiences such as white water rafting on the Nile and paying for that Ugandan visa, US$ 50, ouch! Accommodation was predominately a red K-Way hiking tent but also budget hotels and backpackers.

Cape Town to Windhoek: An efficient if not comfortable Intercape bus which took about 24 hours.

Windhoek to Livingstone: A slightly older and less comfortable Intercape bus which had a blow-out not far from Katima Mulilo extending the trip to 26 hours.

Livingstone to Mazabuka: A dangerously fast Mazhandu Family bus which left and arrived on time in a journey which took 5 hours.

Mazabuka to Lusaka: A 3 hour journey in the comfort of a friend’s Pajero. A welcome respite from bus travel.

Lusaka to Mpulungu: A hellish bus trip with Juldan Motors. While  the overnight bus arrived ahead of schedule, blasting Nollywood movies and extreme speed kept Africa Observed up way after its bedtime.

Mpulungu to Bujumbura: Unable to catch the unreliable and inconsistently scheduled MV Liemba to Kigoma- she was ferrying refugees back to the DRC, Africa Observed negotiated its way onto a cargo vessel, Batralac’s MV Tora, sailing directly to Bujumbura. The 40 hour journey up the east coast of Lake Tanganyika was spectacular and Africa Observed even managed to hole up in the captain’s cabin at night.

Bujumbura to Huye: The 5 hour trip with New Yahoo Express was done at break-neck speed. More chance in this part of the world of dying in a bus accident than being killed by Hutu rebels, Africa Observed reckons.

Huye to Cyangugu: A taxing minibus journey with Atraco through the Nyungwe National Park. A tortuously cramped 5 hours on crumbling roads.

Cyangugu to Kigali: An easier 6 hour trip in a bigger Impala bus.

Kigali to Kabale: A 4 hour journey on an old but at least safe Jaguar bus.

Kabale to Lake Bunyonyi: A comical journey on boda boda and dug out canoe in which Africa Observed had to run up the steepest inclines and paddle its own canoe. 3 hours from Kabale to one of the islands on the lake.

Lake Bunyonyi to Kampala: A motor boat, special hire taxi and Gateway bus to Kampala which collectively took about 11 hours. The road from Kabale to Kampala is being rebuilt which meant it was a long dusty journey.

Kampala to Jinja: A comfortable Adrift rafting bus. 3 hours.

Jinja to Entebbe: Boda bodas and two cheap and comfortable minibuses, one from Jinja to Kampala and the other from Kampala to Entebbe. A total of 5 hours on the road.